This is Part Three of the series about my journey towards finding a bespoke suit. If you missed the previous parts, read the first one here and the second one here.

Pockets were next on the list. I decided that I would go with slanted pockets on Marian's recommendation: they would draw the eye downward and would be more flattering on my body type. I also chose to add a ticket pocket. A ticket pocket is a smaller pocket that sits higher than the normal pocket, on the right side. I have always preferred to have more pockets: stuffing any one pocket full with my cellphone, a pocket comb, a money clip, a pen, and credit cards would ruin the silhouette, creating unsightly bulges. So with all the larger design elements taken care of, we moved on to the smaller details.

The material underneath the collar of my suit was never something I had paid attention. Hell, I barely ever noticed that there was a different material there. But apparently it was one of the details I could customize. I decided to go for a burgundy felt underneath the collar. It would not be visible unless I decided to wear my suit jacket with its collar up, something that I sometimes do out of frivolous fashion reasons depending on mood and weather.

Yet another detail that I had never noticed was the button hole on the lapel. This one minor detail has since found its way into my consciousness. Watching the TV series Mad Men, I catch the varying colors on characters' button holes. I decided to opt for something a little more versatile though, staying with black, or whatever color the stitching would be standard. Aside from the color aesthetic, the button hole itself is of higher quality: the edges are more well defined and form a cleaner image when sewn by hand, a painstaking and lengthy operation that adds to the cost of the suit.

Moving down the jacket, Marian drew my attention to the button holes on the sleeves. Like the button hole on the lapel, all four of them on the sleeves are hand sewn and could be customized. She told me that one popular option was to get the last button hole (the one closest to your wrist) in a different color. I was unsure of it, but did consider burgundy. I thought about having assymetry in my jacket: I wanted to have only a single button hole in red, on the right sleeve. I opted for more versatility though, considering that it would be my first bespoke suit: I wanted it to be able to work with any color shirt and tie. All of my button holes would remain the same standard color as the one on my lapel.

As Marian explained to me, one of the signatures of a bespoke suit jacket is the ability to unbutton the sleeves and to roll them up. It's not something one does on a daily basis. It's not even something one might do at all. But in the event that you do roll up your suit jacket sleeves, there is apparently a fabric that lines the area where the button holes are made. The name of this part of the suit escapes me. In any case, just like the fabric underneath my collar, it would not show under normal usage. I decided to go for the same matching burgundy felt that I used under the collar.

Suit trousers are a much simpler affair, and we devoted far less time on it than we did on the jacket. I had already made up my mind about the pants: flat front with no cuff. With that out of the way, Marian brought up a very fair point about getting a second pair of pants. The material that is used to make suits comes on bolts. As such, it would be most prudent for me to order a second pair of pants right now so that it would be made from the same area on the bolt. Should I decide to order a second pair of pants at a later date, it would be possible that they would have an ever so slightly different look to them. Despite my pants being cut from the same style of fabric, cloth cut from a different part of the bolt may have subtle inconsistencies with my jacket.